Treating Decks Ensures They Will Last Longer - August 29th 2011
This procedure applies to treating or staining all wood decks built at least one foot or more above grade level and is appropriate for the following wood species: Treated Lumber, Western Red Cedar, Spruce, Pine and Hemlock.
Note: If you build your deck at grade level or less than one foot off the ground, all joists must be made of pressure treated lumber. You'll get a longer lasting deck and peace of mind if you use pressure treated lumber for all decks built at grade level or within one foot of grade level.
1. Resist the urge to complete the building of your deck before treating the wood.
2. Lay out all deck boards on top of the joist system with the side that you select for the top surface facing down.
3. Use a felt tipped marker, mark the bottom side of each piece of wood so that you will know which side is up when you're finished.
4. Use a deck wash or stain prep (mill glaze remover). Wash and rinse all six sides of each board and when finished, return them to "bottom side up". Allow them to dry.
5. Whether you like a natural wood finish, stain or paint finish. Spray or brush on the finish of your choice. When you're finished, place the deck boards right side up.
6. Now you're ready to fasten the deck boards into place using the proper treated wood deck screws (ACQ - Alkaline Copper QUAT) or stainless steel galvanized nails.
7. Complete the finishing procedure by applying one or more additional coats to the finished top side.
Treated Lumber - The product should be exposed to the natural elements at least 2 weeks before being fastened the joists. Keep in mind the product may en route to the lumber yard during this 2 week period.
Never apply a wood finish in the bright, hot sunlight. Always read information on container before starting project and it should be 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius) or warmer.
Its Just That Easy!